Borgogno Barolo is an enriching mix of cherry, plum, rose, liquorice, tar and tobacco on the nose. Full-bodied and vibrant on the palate with grip, balance and muscle that keep it focused and give it the potential for a long future.
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Brand: Borgogno
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Description: Dry Red
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Vintages Available: 2018
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Country, Region: Italy, Piedmont
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Appellation: DOCG
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Ratings: WE 94, James Suckling 93/100
About the Producer
When a great wine connoisseur hears the word “Barolo”, he must inevitably think of Borgogno. Founded in 1761, it is in fact the oldest winery of Piedmont, boasting a wealth of historical landmarks: in 1861 the celebratory lunch for the Unification of Italy was marked with a toast of Barolo Borgogno; in 1886 Nicola II Romanov, Tsar of Russia, opened a bottle of Barolo Borgogno during the dinner organized in his honour by the Savoy family.
Cesare Borgogno was the genius who laid out the destiny of this cellar, starting in 1920: he invented the first model of wine distribution in Italy, he was among the first to promote Barolo in the world, and he made the smart move of setting aside 20,000 bottles of each great vintage of Barolo as “Riserva” for at least 20 years, a move that marked the future of Borgogno.
Upon the death of Cesare Borgogno in 1968, the management of the estate passed on to his grand-daughter Ida and her future husband Franco Boschis, later joined, in 1984 by their sons, Cesare and Giorgio.
In 1972 a bottle of the 1886 vintage Borgogno Barolo went under the hammer at the historical wine auction held in Turin for the sum of 530,000 lira. An absolute record for the time and the highest figure ever reached by any Italian wine.
In 2008 the Farinetti family acquired the winery, with the firm commitment of fully respecting its traditions. In line with this commitment, the following years saw an important renovation of the main building take place, which brought it back to its original appearance. Then, in 2013 Borgogno decided to revert to concrete cement as the exclusive material for fermentation tanks. 2015 witnessed the beginning of the conversion to organic practices. In 2016 an important renovation of the historical cellars in Barolo was undertaken, restoring old concrete fermenters and refurbishing other production facilities. Furthermore, 11 ha of vineyards in one of the best locations near Alba, Madonna di Como, were added to the existing 20 ha owned by Borgogno.
Recent years have seen the complete conversion to organic production and the adoption of M.G.A. (Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, the equivalent of the French terms cru or climat). Each M.G.A. endows the wines with particular personalities, such as the Borgogno Barolo from La Morra, in the renowned M.G.A. Annunziata.
Vineyard
The property extends over 38.8 hectares of estate in total, 8 of woods and 30.8 of vineyards. The growing location is situated in Barolo, over the M.G.A. (Crus) of Liste, Fossati, Cannubi, Cannubi San Lorenzo, San Pietro delle Viole. The vineyards face towards south/south – east, at an altitude of 290-370 mt. a.s.l. The soil is calcareous with clayey marl. The vines are trained according to the Guyot system with a density of 4,000 plants/ha.
Vinification
After the manual harvest in the five historic vineyards in the municipality of Barolo, the grapes are de-stemmed and crushed in the cellar. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in large concrete tanks, at a temperature between 22° and 28 °C for about 15 days. 20 days of submerged cap maceration in concrete tanks follow, at which time the malolactic fermentation also takes place.
Ageing
Borgogno Barolo is racked into large Slavonian oak barrels where it will age for 2 years and 7 months. This is followed by a passage in concrete tanks before being bottled.
Tasting Notes
Borgogno Barolo is ruby red colour with garnet highlights. Fresh red fruits and spicy hints on the nose: a mix of cherry, plum, rose, liquorice, tar and tobacco highlights this textbook Barolo. Full-bodied and vibrant on the palate with grip, balance and muscle that keep it focused and give it the potential for a long future. Excellent length.
Analysis
14% alcohol vol.
Food Suggestions
Borgogno Barolo goes well with important dishes, such as traditional Piedmontese meat main courses. Looking at other world culinary traditions, it will pair to perfection with goulash in Eastern Europe; with gyoza (fried dumplings stuffed with spring onion, marinated pork and spices) and Black Cod (Alaskan fish marinated with sugar, sake, miso) in Japan; with beef (angus, wagyu, bue nostral, longhorn) in different cuts such as brisket and beef ribs in the USA.
Serving temperature: 18-20°C.
Cellar
15-20 years in bottles stored horizontally in cool, dark conditions. Borgogno Barolo will improve with time.